When I woke up it was cool, raining, grey,…. the forecast suggested it would clear up around 10:00am for a bit so I took my time. Breakfast was Italian, so done real quick: coffee and a croissant. The lunchbox wasn’t that exciting, 2 buns, a little ham and cheese, a pre made cookie, a juice box, and a water bottle. Packed the cookie and one of the buns, had the juice box, and left the water bottle behind as I have my own.
Was excited to set out and found a whole bunch of lovely donkeys or mules? Can’t remember the difference. There were quite a few foals there too.
Then headed to the Serrai di Sottoguda, a very deep and narrow canyon with a small road going through. It’s supposed to be really stunning, deep drops and high rock walls and there are tunnels left from the wars. In the winter you can do ice climbing here. When I got there it didn’t look too inviting, so I decided to ask at the Albergo Malga Ciapela. And indeed it has been closed for 2 years as a tragedy happened. So what now? There is no other route to walk. Went back up to my hotel and realized the bus just left, next one in 90 minutes.
Had my lunch as the breakfast wasn’t what I am used to anymore. Checked out all the gift stores and the sports store but again, no intention to haul more stuff on my back. Found a nice little bench, the sun came out a bit (still chilly though) and now I wait!
Then I took the bus around the canyon to a beautiful little town, Sottoguda. Lots of blacksmith art, a wood carving store, traditional houses.
Found the next path shortly afterwards thinking I might be wrong. That continued over the next 2 hours. So many mudslides, rockslides must have come down 2 years ago! Everywhere was heavy machinery, digging ditches, fortifying river beds, getting rid of trees that were washed down. Once in a while there was sign marking the path as a hiking path but no directions. Was kind of a challenge to follow the instructions in my hiking guide through this altered landscape.
The Ciavetta came into sight, rapid little creeks became bigger ones, and it looked it could rain or not! 🙂
When I finally gave in at another “do not pass” sign I had to follow the road, at least in a cycling/hiking path. And then I saw a car driving on the other forbidden side of the river, go figure!
I passed the little village of Santa Maria delle Grazie with its pilgrimage church and had a quick look.
And then I reached Alleghe, right by the lake. It’s a gorgeous location, just below the Ciavetta and on the other side of the Marmolada, however it wasn’t always by a lake. In 1771 a massive rock and mudslide buried 3 other little villages and within a few days the lake formed and 4 more villages were flooded. Today the lake is 1.5km long and 18m deep.
I had booked my hotel just this morning and I have a tiny little room under the roof, very cozy though and I have a short little bath tub!
Had a fabulous dinner at the Sporthotel Europa. Spinach gnocchi with chanterelles and polenta with truffles and king boletes was the highlight.
Now it’s time to plan my next few days. Haven’t quite made up my mind yet!