Going to have to take the bus, in fact 2 buses to catch back up with my route. First to Corvara where I walked from yesterday and then from there to the Passo Pordoi at 2239m (7345ft).
The connection is not the best, either super early and I would miss breakfast (not an option as I only had an energy bar and some nuts for dinner) or a little later which will get me to Passo Pordoi around 11:00am. A bit late for a hiking day but that’s my options. Of course that is making me a little nervous too. And the new snow! Right now it’s 2C at the pass but supposed to warm up to 4C (39F) by the time I get there.
Transferred in Corvara to line 472. So proud of myself as I understood the ticket price correctly – Euro 6.00! What a rough road, construction! This coach has seatbelts and of course I am wearing mine unlike everybody else. Had a “td seat” in the first one. 🙂
When I got to Pordoi Pass I realized I could have stayed there last night and get a head start today. Never thought of that before. The pass is also the border between 2 provinces, the Südtirol/Trentino area and the Belluno/Veneto Region. Belluno is the last town before Venice if I decide to skip the long walk through the Venetian lowlands.
The Ossario di Pordoi is visible on the left as I climb up from the pass. When Austria was at war with Italy in 1915 German troups were sent to the Alps to support the Austrians and had to fight off the cold and snow as well. At this time Germany was not at war with Italy yet. 8582 Austrian and German soldiers fell during WWI and 849 during WWII. This memorial opened in 1956.
I also passed a small chapel dedicated to the climbers and hikers who lost their lives in this area. So many of them, it really makes you even more respectful of those mountains. The beauty that they hold to us can quite easily turn into a threat!
The Marmolada was a significant marker during WWI when the Austrian-Hungarian troups were fighting Italian troups. There were many tunnels for provisions and accommodation dug into the mountains and the glaciers, an ice city, and in 1916 when lots of avalanches came down all over the Alps more than 300 Austrian soldiers were killed in an avalanche. What terrible conditions these people must have endured.
And then there she is, the queen of the Dolomites, first hardly visible in snow and clouds and then she accompanied me all day.
Very busy and popular hiking trail here. Everybody and their dog is out it seems, literally! Today it makes me a bit calmer though for some reason although at the same time it makes me miss those quieter and lonelier days.
Until 2005 the Marmolada was popular for summer skiing on the glacier but no more due to it receding rapidly.
And then the first glimpse of Lake Fedaia. Expected but overwhelmingly beautiful.
Passing the Rifugio Viel de Pan at 2432m (almost 8000ft). A popular destination for day hikers, very busy but very scenic.
Had a chance to observe a big flock of Dohlen, similar to crows but with a yellow beak who only live in the alpine region.
Next to the path the slopes are very steep sometimes and I remind myself that I just have to focus on the path.
You can easily see where the glacier has carved out the rock and some of the morraines that the gkacier left behind are clearly visible too.
And then the very steep descend down to Fedaia Lake. Crossing over the west dam and then following the lake on the original road at the south side.
The road runs on the North side of the lake.
Today closed for traffic, also due to rock slides, bigger ones and smaller ones.
Then a long steep descend over ski hills into Malga Ciapela. Not a lot of fun for 2/3rds of the way. No path, wet meadows, rough section seeming from a disastrous storm not too lomg ago, creeks to cross,… until finally the slope was less steep, still no path but a bigger creek. I think no one walks down that hill but the crazy Munich to Venice hikers. I bet locals know that too.
My beautiful green rocks: Considered taking one or two but hey, I am backpacking!
And then I finally saw them, the sheep. Way up by the lake still I had found a sheep skull, the wollen coat still attached but hollow underneath, a bit disturbing. Then I had found traces of wool and droppings, and finally here they were. So many young lambs still, running and jumping around. I thought that was a bit late for the season.
And then I reached the Principe Marmolada Hotel. They had been really accommodating changing my reservation to today. Turned out to be a typical Italian family hotel where 3 meals a day are included. The room was definitely more basic, especially compared to my last nights in La Villa but still good value. There was a huge buffet with appetizers, main courses, and dessert. Easy to just point at things. Happy to get lots of fresh vegetables! So much healthy food from salads, to antipasti, fruit,….
The energy in the dining room reminded me a bit of Chinese Dim Sun but even more. So many kids running around. Asked for a packed lunch for tomorrow.
Have really been enjoying your travels
Thank you James!
Wow so many amazing photos and great commentary! When we were in the Dolomites in September a few years ago we stayed overnight in the ski town of Cortina and took a bus tour up to the gondola and a very steep gondola ride up to the summit. The bus stopped at a World War I museum along the way. The museum was fascinating with many wartime artifacts that had been found in the mountains and other displays. (We have photos that I will have to show you when you are back in Victoria.) It was hard to imagine the horrors of fighting a war in those rocky slopes and in the frigid snowy winters.
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Wonderful pics again today. It did look like a hard climb but the scenery was fantastic.
Thanks for this wonderful blog Sibylle.