Decided to take it a little easier today and the innkeeper of the Risser Hof arranged for a shuttle to take me up into the Hinterautal to the Lanier Alm. This saved me about 15km. In retrospect I should have taken the train much earlier yesterday and walked the whole valley today because it was absolutely gorgeous. Busy with hikers and cyclists although listening to my driver it was not even half as busy as usual!
But first I went to the ruins of Porta Claudia. Claudia de Medici was born in Florence and was the Regent of Tirol during the minority of her son from 1632 until 1646. She gave orders to build the Porta Claudia.
In 1633 Tirol received the right for the northern part of the construction from Werdenfels (Bavaria) to build a fortification to protect Tirol from the Swedes during the 30 year war. And what a fortification this must have been! Stretching all across the valley which is very narrow here and just the river Isar cuts through.
The main traffic through Scharnitz goes through a tunnel today which makes for a quiet little town.
An alm is usually a place that has cows around in the meadows, sometimes mothers with calves, sometimes young cattle, sometimes dairy cows. In that case you often get fresh milk, buttermilk, butter, and cheese. They are a popular place to take a rest and often offer food like Speckplatten (smoked ham, butter, and bread), coffee, refreshments,….
All these signs I have seen about staying away from cows! “Cows are dangerous!” In Canada it would say “Bears in the area”.
I had a quick coffee and a Schinkenplatte as it started raining again. Most of the food I packed and ate over 2 days and then it went mostly steep uphill for 5km.
I had a little rest at a hunting hut next to a waterfall and then carried on.
The clouds opened and out came the impressive Karwendel.
Lots of cows around and if you look closely they have an interesting hair do as if their top hair had been dyed rusty brown. Lots of mother cows and calves.
Steep and craggy slopes of the Karwendel, so impressive!
Reached the Hallerangerhaus (1768m) early which was a real treat. Beautifully renovated inside and out, and they even have showers!
Surprisingly the 5 bed room was almost full by the end of the day we were 4! Pretty much to capacity. Very different from my first experience at the Tutzinger Hütte where I had a room to myself as a single hiker. Different Corona rules also anywhere in the restaurant business, no masks needed. If you go into a store however, bus, or train, you have to wear them.
I visited the highest source of the Isar, the Lafatscherbach (1770m). The official source of the Isar is way lower down in The Valley but it was a memorable moment as I had followed this river to its highest source for more than a week.
Then I had spinach dumplings for dinner and got a tip that after 6:00pm I could see “Gamsen” beim Klettersteig. And sure enough, I did see 2! Listening to the cow bells ringing in the night I returned.
I was dead tired again, like every day, and got ready to tuck myself in for the night. What a downpour happened for the next 2 hours! Our room being right under the roof made for a peaceful drifting away.
Getting jealous
It is so beautiful! I love the cow bells in the video and the signs to beware of the cows are funny. I’m sure a cow could do some damage but, as you say, you would certainly never see a sign like that in Canada. When we went to Italy we were in the Dolomites near the border of Austria with many similarities to the scenery in your amazing photos. But we were not working nearly as hard as you are! I’m glad to see you have altered course slightly and picked up a ride or two along the way. You must save your feet from more blisters and enjoy every moment of your amazing adventure!
https://www.dw.com/en/deadly-cows-prompt-law-change-for-hikers-in-austria/a-47863994
Beautiful pics Sibylle. The mountains are breathtaking and I love the cows.